Tuning & Caring Info
Cutting your Stinger
TTR Series Shafts – *** It is Highly Recommended to use an analyzer rather a standard SWR meter for initial setup. For use on 10/11 Meters, you can use any 102” whip cut down to approx. 72” (6ft) as a starting point. Cut or grind stinger in 1/2” increments until your’e in the ball park. The every 1/4″ until you find the sweet-spot. You can dial it in for a specific frequency or set for CH20 / 27.205 to cover entire band. For use on 10Meters, a slightly shorter stinger may be required. **For high power use (over 5kW) – it is recommended that you use a non-tapered whip. If tapered whip is all that’s available, a HUSTLER brand Stainless Steel Whip or a quality non-tapered Stainless Whip is recommended. Cheaper whips have been known to blow chunks of steel out of the whip (cheaply made and use low grade steel). For most people using up to a 16pill – the cheaper whips work fine. Non Tapered Whips are preferred but tapered is ok. When used in a bounce back configuration, you will notice crazy wide bandwidth.
For use on 10M, the stinger will need to be a few inches shorter.
Suggested Mounting
Some of our antennas are on the heavier side, so it is recommended that your mounting system be stout. A good puck mount with backing plate should do the job just fine. If a puck mount is not an option, a QUAD mag mount will hold it, but may not survive a whack from low-lying tree branch. When using mag mounts, it is recommended that a 1” braided ground strap be used to connect the ground side of the mag mount to sheet metal of the roof or trunk lid (or wherever you are mounting this). Do not use the vehicle frame for grounding antennas – use the steel body panels on the vehicle, preferably the roof or trunk lid (better counterpoise and tuning). Mounting to toolboxes or back-racks is not recommended, but if you have to, ground/bond the box or rack to the cab of the truck (beds should be bonded to cab as well for best results. In hi-power applications, it may be necessary to bond all moving body parts (doors, hod, trunk lid, etc. In some cases, even the tail pipe of the vehicle,
Bounce Back / Parasitic Reflector Setup
When running 2 antennas in a bounce-back/parasitic reflector configuration, puck spacing is recommended at 86” spacing center-to-center (Suburban’s/Excursion’s/Van’s, etc.). A good starting point for puck mounting is approx. 13-14” from the rear hatch/door. Measure 5 times, drill/cut once! 😉 The rear puck will be grounded out to the roof using braided grounding strap from puck center to one of the bolts to your puck. Your coax/feed line will be connected to the front puck. With the rear antenna removed, set the tuning on your front (hot) antenna. When completed move to the rear puck. Install the 2nd antenna to the front (hot) position with the stinger approximately 2-3” shorter (starting point) and tune as necessary. In this configuration, your signal will be more directional and will have additional forward gain – more or less, a mobile beam. In most cases, signal coming in from rear of vehicle will have some rejection.
Caring & Cleaning
Nothing is maintenance free! It is recommended that you use a dab of dielectric grease on the stinger set screw and a small smear along the lower part of the stinger where it enters the ferrule. Once tuned, apply a small dab of silicone or RTV around the base of the stinger/whip where it meets the ferrule to keep rainwater out. Aluminum & Stainless will fuse together over time if not properly cared for periodically. To keep aluminum shiny – any good metal or mag polish like Mother’s or Meguiar’s will work nicely. You may also find that wiping down the aluminum with a quality lubricant (like CRC or Hoppes 9) will leave a coating on it preventing oxidation. If aluminum ever becomes dull or chalky, rub with fine grit steel wool until bright and then polish if desired. Stingers and set screws should be removed periodically and cleaned/lubricated. Over time if proper maintenance is not performed, the stinger and set screw can become seized due to the dissimilar metals and oxidation.